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Donnhoff

2007 Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Wine Advocate

95
/
2007 Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L
Donnhoff

2007 Donnhoff, Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Wine Advocate

95
/

Considered the Nahe's finest Grand Cru, Herman is actually an ode to Hermes, and Höhle to the small mine buried in the hill. A wild array of soils - black slate, limestone, some volcanic influence as well - only heighten the complexity, and these wines are a true treat to find with age!

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Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

Donnhoff

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

Meet the Producer

Donnhoff

Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

The 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs exhibits the mesmerizing diversity for which the site - and in particular Donnhoff's representations of it - are renowned. Toasted seeds, nut oils, pink grapefruit rind, and illusive (perhaps orchid like?) floral notes are among the elements that inform a wine of palpable stuffing yet refined frame, and suffused with saline, savory, and stony elements that - along with nut oils and a coffee-like low tone - are the last tones to resonate in its long finish. This is complex more by way of layering than of interaction such as exhibited by the corresponding Dellchen. It will be worth pondering for at least another 15 years. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

The 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs exhibits the mesmerizing diversity for which the site - and in particular Donnhoff's representations of it - are renowned. Toasted seeds, nut oils, pink grapefruit rind, and illusive (perhaps orchid like?) floral notes are among the elements that inform a wine of palpable stuffing yet refined frame, and suffused with saline, savory, and stony elements that - along with nut oils and a coffee-like low tone - are the last tones to resonate in its long finish. This is complex more by way of layering than of interaction such as exhibited by the corresponding Dellchen. It will be worth pondering for at least another 15 years. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.