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2007 Domaine Leroy, Savigny-les-Beaune, Les Narbantons

Regular price $3,500
/
2007 Domaine Leroy, Savigny-les-Beaune, Les Narbantons

2007 Domaine Leroy, Savigny-les-Beaune, Les Narbantons

Regular price $3,500
/
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Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Domaine Leroy

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Leroy

Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

Smoky, gamey, and crushed stone scents on the nose of Leroy’s 2007 Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Narbantons segue into a palate of remarkable depth and grip, featuring peat, chalk, humus, roasted meats, toasted nuts, musk, and sea water. This is one of those red Burgundies that prompts you to wonder how such flavors could come from grapes, but that at the same time seems uncannily at home mingling with saliva in human mouths. It also perfectly exemplifies the iron-first-in-velvet-glove metaphor with a chain mail-like sense of fine-grained resilience that in no way detracts from textural allure. Bize-Leroy compares this (like several in Savigny) under-rated site with Corton, and the analogy is especially apt in such an instance of grand cru aspirations fulfilled. I would anticipate at least the better part of two decades’ fascination. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.)

Vinous

Vinous

89

Medium red. Musky aromas of red fruits complicated by soil nuances. Juicy but on the lean side, with an attractive wildness and a less refined texture than the Chambolle. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins and good length. This showed more body as it opened in the glass.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

Smoky, gamey, and crushed stone scents on the nose of Leroy’s 2007 Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Narbantons segue into a palate of remarkable depth and grip, featuring peat, chalk, humus, roasted meats, toasted nuts, musk, and sea water. This is one of those red Burgundies that prompts you to wonder how such flavors could come from grapes, but that at the same time seems uncannily at home mingling with saliva in human mouths. It also perfectly exemplifies the iron-first-in-velvet-glove metaphor with a chain mail-like sense of fine-grained resilience that in no way detracts from textural allure. Bize-Leroy compares this (like several in Savigny) under-rated site with Corton, and the analogy is especially apt in such an instance of grand cru aspirations fulfilled. I would anticipate at least the better part of two decades’ fascination. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.)

Vinous

Vinous

89

Medium red. Musky aromas of red fruits complicated by soil nuances. Juicy but on the lean side, with an attractive wildness and a less refined texture than the Chambolle. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins and good length. This showed more body as it opened in the glass.