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Domaine Leroy

2007 Domaine Leroy, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes

France Pinot Noir Burgundy Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

92
/
2007 Domaine Leroy, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes
Domaine Leroy

2007 Domaine Leroy, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes

France Pinot Noir Burgundy Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

92
/
0 In Stock

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Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Domaine Leroy

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Leroy

Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

Kirsch, soy, smoked meats, and lily on the nose of Leroy’s 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes foreshadow a palate impression of amazing finesse, brightness, textural refinement, and transparency to myriad floral, mineral, and carnal nuances. The sense of marine mineral depth reminds me of this year’s Beaux Monts, but allied to a more intense and fresher fruit. Mace and ginger add to the enticements of which this wine already offers so many, and the finish leaves me invigorated and delightedly licking the salt from my lips. I wonder whether this might undergo phases of reticence, but I really suspect it will deliver immense pleasure in any of the next 12-15 years. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.)

Vinous

Vinous

92

Good full red. Sexy, deep aromas of raspberry, minerals and flowers; there's something exhilaratingly wild about this. Then juicy and sweet on the palate, with lovely floral lift to the red berry and mineral flavors. The silky, suave mid-palate leads to round tannins. Classic Chambolle.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

Kirsch, soy, smoked meats, and lily on the nose of Leroy’s 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes foreshadow a palate impression of amazing finesse, brightness, textural refinement, and transparency to myriad floral, mineral, and carnal nuances. The sense of marine mineral depth reminds me of this year’s Beaux Monts, but allied to a more intense and fresher fruit. Mace and ginger add to the enticements of which this wine already offers so many, and the finish leaves me invigorated and delightedly licking the salt from my lips. I wonder whether this might undergo phases of reticence, but I really suspect it will deliver immense pleasure in any of the next 12-15 years. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.)

Vinous

Vinous

92

Good full red. Sexy, deep aromas of raspberry, minerals and flowers; there's something exhilaratingly wild about this. Then juicy and sweet on the palate, with lovely floral lift to the red berry and mineral flavors. The silky, suave mid-palate leads to round tannins. Classic Chambolle.