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2007 Domaine Francois Raveneau, Chablis Premier Cru, Butteaux

A 1.49 hectare parcel averaging 45 years of age. Hand-harvested, fermented in used oak barrels and aged in feuillettes for about 1 year.

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A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

Domaine Francois Raveneau

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Francois Raveneau

A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92-93

Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis Butteaux smells uncannily of the sea and beach detritus, marking the greatest imaginable contrast to the exotically, lushly-fruited aromas of the 2006. Brine, iodine, and things crustacean and bivalvular mark the palate here, too, along with refreshing lemon, bittersweet floral perfume, and hints of tart red berry. The suggestions of cask should prove well-integrated in the final assemblage (portions of the initial blend had, unsurprisingly, been returned to newer barrels than had others) and a long finish of truly lip-smacking and thought-provoking savor is assured over the better part of the next decade. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.)

Vinous

Vinous

92-94

Reticent nose shows more menthol and crushed stone than fruit. Then tactile and high-pitched in the mouth, with terrific acid grip and floral lift to frame its intense flavors of crushed stone, minerals and lemon. Finishes very long and brisk, with a resounding stony quality.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92-93

Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis Butteaux smells uncannily of the sea and beach detritus, marking the greatest imaginable contrast to the exotically, lushly-fruited aromas of the 2006. Brine, iodine, and things crustacean and bivalvular mark the palate here, too, along with refreshing lemon, bittersweet floral perfume, and hints of tart red berry. The suggestions of cask should prove well-integrated in the final assemblage (portions of the initial blend had, unsurprisingly, been returned to newer barrels than had others) and a long finish of truly lip-smacking and thought-provoking savor is assured over the better part of the next decade. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.)

Vinous

Vinous

92-94

Reticent nose shows more menthol and crushed stone than fruit. Then tactile and high-pitched in the mouth, with terrific acid grip and floral lift to frame its intense flavors of crushed stone, minerals and lemon. Finishes very long and brisk, with a resounding stony quality.