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2007 Domaine Francois Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

0.5 hectares of old vines in the greatest vineyard of them all in Chablis. 45-year vines on average are hand-harvested and pressed into old barrels, then aged in feuillettes for about one year.

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A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

Domaine Francois Raveneau

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Francois Raveneau

A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97-98

Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos is less severe, intractably dense, or obdurately stony than most of the vintage’s representations of this great site, being at once electrically energized and practically ethereal in its high-toned expressions of bitter-sweet floral and pit fruit distillates, citrus zest, white truffle, quarry dust, and ocean breezes. Luscious grapefruit and white peach seem to be mingled with a sea water reduction on the palate, leading to a finish that tugs relentlessly at the salivary glands and practically seems to suck blood from your gums, all the while displaying buoyancy that defies gravity. This is magical. If lucky enough to acquire multiple bottles, I would plan to stretch out the experience of them over at least a dozen years. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.)

Vinous

Vinous

96-97

Pale yellow. Compelling, high-pitched nose combines powdered stone, lemon peel, white pepper, violet, ginger and white truffle. Even more vibrant and precise than the Valmur if that's possible, with incredible energy to its citrus peel and crushed rock flavors. Finishes with extraordinary clarity and finesse. A classic in the making.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97-98

Raveneau’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos is less severe, intractably dense, or obdurately stony than most of the vintage’s representations of this great site, being at once electrically energized and practically ethereal in its high-toned expressions of bitter-sweet floral and pit fruit distillates, citrus zest, white truffle, quarry dust, and ocean breezes. Luscious grapefruit and white peach seem to be mingled with a sea water reduction on the palate, leading to a finish that tugs relentlessly at the salivary glands and practically seems to suck blood from your gums, all the while displaying buoyancy that defies gravity. This is magical. If lucky enough to acquire multiple bottles, I would plan to stretch out the experience of them over at least a dozen years. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.)

Vinous

Vinous

96-97

Pale yellow. Compelling, high-pitched nose combines powdered stone, lemon peel, white pepper, violet, ginger and white truffle. Even more vibrant and precise than the Valmur if that's possible, with incredible energy to its citrus peel and crushed rock flavors. Finishes with extraordinary clarity and finesse. A classic in the making.