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2006 Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins

Regular price $495
/
2006 Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins

2006 Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins

Regular price $495
/
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The late, great Henri Bonneau is a vigneron to whom few can hold a candle; in the Rhône you could only name a few, such as Jacques Reynaud, who had done as much to raise the prominence and quality of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Much as his late friend Reynaud, Bonneau devoted much of his blend and his vineyards to the Grenache grape whose elegance and power few have ever so elegantly harnessed. His cuvées are beautifully age-worthy, particularly the famed Réserve des Céestins, perhaps the greatest bottling in the region.

Henri Bonneau

None of Bonneau's wines are de-stemmed, the wines fermented in concrete with gentle punch-downs before being sent to a wide variety of barrel sizes and shapes, none of which are less than a decade old. Bonneau disliked new oak as much as he did new grape clones or vines that exceeded 50 years of age. A traditionalist, you could say - the wines would remain in barrel until he felt they were ready; in fact, there is a rare, single-barrel bottling of Célestins that has only occurred twice - Cuvée Speciale - that he held back because the powerful wine took so long to ferment, and eventually still had a touch of residual sugar.

Célestins is sourced from La Crau, home to the famous galet-laden soils that produce the richest wines of Châteauneuf. About 90% Grenache, filled in with Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise and Vaccarese. There are typically only 2 wines per vintage, though sometimes the Célestins will be declassified as a normal Châteauneuf.

There are no secrets here, no tricks, just tradition to the finest, and having the ability to know just when a wine is perfectly ready.

Meet the Producer

Henri Bonneau

The late, great Henri Bonneau is a vigneron to whom few can hold a candle; in the Rhône you could only name a few, such as Jacques Reynaud, who had done as much to raise the prominence and quality of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Much as his late friend Reynaud, Bonneau devoted much of his blend and his vineyards to the Grenache grape whose elegance and power few have ever so elegantly harnessed. His cuvées are beautifully age-worthy, particularly the famed Réserve des Céestins, perhaps the greatest bottling in the region.

None of Bonneau's wines are de-stemmed, the wines fermented in concrete with gentle punch-downs before being sent to a wide variety of barrel sizes and shapes, none of which are less than a decade old. Bonneau disliked new oak as much as he did new grape clones or vines that exceeded 50 years of age. A traditionalist, you could say - the wines would remain in barrel until he felt they were ready; in fact, there is a rare, single-barrel bottling of Célestins that has only occurred twice - Cuvée Speciale - that he held back because the powerful wine took so long to ferment, and eventually still had a touch of residual sugar.

Célestins is sourced from La Crau, home to the famous galet-laden soils that produce the richest wines of Châteauneuf. About 90% Grenache, filled in with Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise and Vaccarese. There are typically only 2 wines per vintage, though sometimes the Célestins will be declassified as a normal Châteauneuf.

There are no secrets here, no tricks, just tradition to the finest, and having the ability to know just when a wine is perfectly ready.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

So, with no further ado, the 2006 Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins (this bottle was the only wine not tasted at the domaine and was purchased and reviewed by me last year) is a blend of 85% Grenache, and 15% assorted varieties, that’s aged all in older barrel and foudre. Exhibiting a dense ruby/purple color, it is incredibly old-school on the nose with loads of roasted Provencal herbs, meat juice, plum sauce, game, and licorice aromas all showing up. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a full, fleshy mid-palate, superb ripeness, and a solid finish, this textbook Chateauneuf du Pape opens up beautifully in the glass and is a joy to drink. With no hard edges and an approachable feel, it is superb now, but should also age gracefully for 12-15 years. A great, and eye opening, visit that goes to show that sanitation might not be everything when it comes to winemaking, Henri Bonneau’s cellar is as incredibly humid, dirty and packed a cellar as I’ve ever seen. (In comparison, Rayas, which would give some Central Coast winemakers a heart attack, seems as sanitary as the International Space Station.) Nevertheless, Bonneau portrays a zest for life and the sweet nectar that comes out of the barrels could come from nowhere else. It’s also times like that when you realize how lucky we are, as wine lovers today, to have the access to a gentleman like Henri Bonneau and to be able to taste his wines. They won’t exist forever. During the visit, we went through every vintage back to 2005, however, due to the incredible time in barrel prior to bottling (some wines spend upward of 5 years in barrel), I question the correlation to what I tasted to what will actually end up in barrel (or the use of reviewing 2012s and 2011s now, when they won’t be released for years). As such, I’ve opted to just review the 2009s, 2008 (which is in bottle), the 2007 (which, based on my tasting, could be bottled tomorrow and be fabulous) and the 2006, which I reviewed last year for the Rhone Report.

Vinous

Vinous

94

Vivid ruby. Black and blue fruits on the pungent, floral-accented nose. Deeply pitched but energetic cassis and boysenberry flavors show impressive power, with juicy acidity and a spicy nuance providing life and lift. Clings with outstanding tenacity and leaves notes of licorice and candied flowers behind. I find this finished bottling of Celestins more accessible and elegant than the '07 Marie Beurrier that I tasted just before it.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

So, with no further ado, the 2006 Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins (this bottle was the only wine not tasted at the domaine and was purchased and reviewed by me last year) is a blend of 85% Grenache, and 15% assorted varieties, that’s aged all in older barrel and foudre. Exhibiting a dense ruby/purple color, it is incredibly old-school on the nose with loads of roasted Provencal herbs, meat juice, plum sauce, game, and licorice aromas all showing up. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a full, fleshy mid-palate, superb ripeness, and a solid finish, this textbook Chateauneuf du Pape opens up beautifully in the glass and is a joy to drink. With no hard edges and an approachable feel, it is superb now, but should also age gracefully for 12-15 years. A great, and eye opening, visit that goes to show that sanitation might not be everything when it comes to winemaking, Henri Bonneau’s cellar is as incredibly humid, dirty and packed a cellar as I’ve ever seen. (In comparison, Rayas, which would give some Central Coast winemakers a heart attack, seems as sanitary as the International Space Station.) Nevertheless, Bonneau portrays a zest for life and the sweet nectar that comes out of the barrels could come from nowhere else. It’s also times like that when you realize how lucky we are, as wine lovers today, to have the access to a gentleman like Henri Bonneau and to be able to taste his wines. They won’t exist forever. During the visit, we went through every vintage back to 2005, however, due to the incredible time in barrel prior to bottling (some wines spend upward of 5 years in barrel), I question the correlation to what I tasted to what will actually end up in barrel (or the use of reviewing 2012s and 2011s now, when they won’t be released for years). As such, I’ve opted to just review the 2009s, 2008 (which is in bottle), the 2007 (which, based on my tasting, could be bottled tomorrow and be fabulous) and the 2006, which I reviewed last year for the Rhone Report.

Vinous

Vinous

94

Vivid ruby. Black and blue fruits on the pungent, floral-accented nose. Deeply pitched but energetic cassis and boysenberry flavors show impressive power, with juicy acidity and a spicy nuance providing life and lift. Clings with outstanding tenacity and leaves notes of licorice and candied flowers behind. I find this finished bottling of Celestins more accessible and elegant than the '07 Marie Beurrier that I tasted just before it.