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2006 Domaine Leroy, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
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Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Domaine Leroy

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Leroy

Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

Broad-shouldered and meaty as well as palpably extract-rich, and in at least those respects reminiscent of this year's Richebourg, the Leroy 2006 Clos Vougeot suggests herbed lamb roasted in a stone pit, with a concentrated saucing of cassis and blackberries. Smoky, saline, and pungently herbal notes mingle with the carnal and berry-rich elements in a long finish of mouth-watering savor and invigoratingly pungent smokiness. This sturdy, dense, yet immediately appealing Clos Vougeot should be fascinating to follow, and offers further evidence of the remarkably varied vinous personalities within the 2006 Leroy collection. The results achieved by Lalou Bize-Leroy in 2006 are all the more notable in view of the misgivings she expressed early on about this vintage. (And, as her reaction to 2004 demonstrates, she will not shy away from declassifying even her entire production if she feels that the wines are not up to their terroir pedigrees.) As voluptuously rich as are Bize-Leroy's 2006 reds, they preserve the sense of buoyancy and elegance common to so many of the standouts of this vintage, and one's gums will not come away fatigued by the strength of underlying tannin or the near-hyper-concentration displayed by her – to be sure awesome – 2005s. As every year, these wines represent meticulous vine manicure; miniscule yields ("above all regulated by severe pruning, not triage," Bize-Leroy emphasizes); and fidelity to biodynamic methods and metaphysics; and were bottled in the second December following the harvest. Despite their winsomeness, they have long life expectancies. Since, however, I have very little experience of their predecessors as they have matured, I have confined my prognostication to a few isolated and very general comments in the tasting notes that follow. Note that I have included as well under the heading "Leroy" the wines of Madame Bize-Leroy's Domaine d'Auvenay – its cellars located outside Saint-Romain – which now encompass two appellations in red, since inevitably when information is being sought about these wines, and even often when they are described, it is under the name "Leroy."

Vinous

Vinous

94

Good full, bright red. Soil-inflected nose hints at black cherry, redcurrant, menthol and earth. At once powerful and austere, with strong acid spine and peppery thrust to the black fruit and floral flavors. The ripe tannins coat the molars, but this very long and precise wine offers superb finesse.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

Broad-shouldered and meaty as well as palpably extract-rich, and in at least those respects reminiscent of this year's Richebourg, the Leroy 2006 Clos Vougeot suggests herbed lamb roasted in a stone pit, with a concentrated saucing of cassis and blackberries. Smoky, saline, and pungently herbal notes mingle with the carnal and berry-rich elements in a long finish of mouth-watering savor and invigoratingly pungent smokiness. This sturdy, dense, yet immediately appealing Clos Vougeot should be fascinating to follow, and offers further evidence of the remarkably varied vinous personalities within the 2006 Leroy collection. The results achieved by Lalou Bize-Leroy in 2006 are all the more notable in view of the misgivings she expressed early on about this vintage. (And, as her reaction to 2004 demonstrates, she will not shy away from declassifying even her entire production if she feels that the wines are not up to their terroir pedigrees.) As voluptuously rich as are Bize-Leroy's 2006 reds, they preserve the sense of buoyancy and elegance common to so many of the standouts of this vintage, and one's gums will not come away fatigued by the strength of underlying tannin or the near-hyper-concentration displayed by her – to be sure awesome – 2005s. As every year, these wines represent meticulous vine manicure; miniscule yields ("above all regulated by severe pruning, not triage," Bize-Leroy emphasizes); and fidelity to biodynamic methods and metaphysics; and were bottled in the second December following the harvest. Despite their winsomeness, they have long life expectancies. Since, however, I have very little experience of their predecessors as they have matured, I have confined my prognostication to a few isolated and very general comments in the tasting notes that follow. Note that I have included as well under the heading "Leroy" the wines of Madame Bize-Leroy's Domaine d'Auvenay – its cellars located outside Saint-Romain – which now encompass two appellations in red, since inevitably when information is being sought about these wines, and even often when they are described, it is under the name "Leroy."

Vinous

Vinous

94

Good full, bright red. Soil-inflected nose hints at black cherry, redcurrant, menthol and earth. At once powerful and austere, with strong acid spine and peppery thrust to the black fruit and floral flavors. The ripe tannins coat the molars, but this very long and precise wine offers superb finesse.