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2006 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chenes
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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The Lafon 2006 Volnay Clos des Chenes offers distinctly chalky an crushed stone notes even in the nose, and in the manner familiar from other wines of this vintage reflects the cool, rocky character of its site in an element of austerity. Cool, fresh and distilled red fruits wreathed in herbs and spiced with site-typical ginger offer delightful pungency and counterpoint of flavors that seem able to use the wine's mineral foundation as a sounding board, and finish with juicy, effortless refreshment. This elegant if slightly austere Clos des Chenes should, I suspect, best be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Dominique Lafon picked his 2006 Pinots only in the last days of September and then – like most of his colleagues – took pains to extract and to handle the young wines very gently so as to emphasize fruit. "I don't like to carry grey rot in the picking boxes," says Lafon, "so the first selection of botrytis was done by the pickers in the vineyard, and then we finished on the sorting table." He estimates that there was at most 10-15% tainted fruit, with some parcels largely rot-free.

Vinous

Vinous

89

Good bright red. Pretty aromas of red cherry, flowers and spices. A step up in intensity on the palate, with enticing inner-mouth perfume and an impression of chewy extract to the red fruit and spice flavors. Very elegantly styled wine, but there's also more structure here thanks to a touch of finishing minerality.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The Lafon 2006 Volnay Clos des Chenes offers distinctly chalky an crushed stone notes even in the nose, and in the manner familiar from other wines of this vintage reflects the cool, rocky character of its site in an element of austerity. Cool, fresh and distilled red fruits wreathed in herbs and spiced with site-typical ginger offer delightful pungency and counterpoint of flavors that seem able to use the wine's mineral foundation as a sounding board, and finish with juicy, effortless refreshment. This elegant if slightly austere Clos des Chenes should, I suspect, best be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Dominique Lafon picked his 2006 Pinots only in the last days of September and then – like most of his colleagues – took pains to extract and to handle the young wines very gently so as to emphasize fruit. "I don't like to carry grey rot in the picking boxes," says Lafon, "so the first selection of botrytis was done by the pickers in the vineyard, and then we finished on the sorting table." He estimates that there was at most 10-15% tainted fruit, with some parcels largely rot-free.

Vinous

Vinous

89

Good bright red. Pretty aromas of red cherry, flowers and spices. A step up in intensity on the palate, with enticing inner-mouth perfume and an impression of chewy extract to the red fruit and spice flavors. Very elegantly styled wine, but there's also more structure here thanks to a touch of finishing minerality.