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2005 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chenes
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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93-94

Aromas of smoked meat, freshly-grated ginger, and intensely concentrated cherry and red currant offer a call to the forceful attack mounted on the palate by the Lafarges’ 2005 Volnay Clos des Chenes, incisively reaching every corner. But for all of its brightness as well as obvious tannic structure, this is imposingly creamy in texture, and low tones of dark chocolate, meats (running the gamut from ham hocks to bloody beef), chalk and wet stone emerge – along with subtle and complex spiciness – in an evocative finish. As usual, this will offer a fascinating decade or more of comparison with the Clos du Chateau des Ducs. (The 2004, incidentally, displays cut, clarity, and more concentration than its vintage stable mates – because, says Lafarge, the fruit from this site permitted greater fermentative extraction than that from his other hailed-on Volnay vineyards.) The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus.

Vinous

Vinous

95

Full ruby-red. Pure, complex but restrained nose offers blackberry, black cherry, licorice, spices and black pepper. Wonderfully intense and vibrant, with a compellingly chewy texture and great thrust to the highly concentrated dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. The fine-grained tannins spread out to saturate the palate of this powerfully structured Volnay, with the wine's perfume lingering in the mouth for minutes. I asked Frederic when the estate last made a Clos des Chenes as good as this, and he replied that it's the best since the '61. Extended bottle aging may well bring an even higher rating. Volnay doesn't get much better than this.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93-94

Aromas of smoked meat, freshly-grated ginger, and intensely concentrated cherry and red currant offer a call to the forceful attack mounted on the palate by the Lafarges’ 2005 Volnay Clos des Chenes, incisively reaching every corner. But for all of its brightness as well as obvious tannic structure, this is imposingly creamy in texture, and low tones of dark chocolate, meats (running the gamut from ham hocks to bloody beef), chalk and wet stone emerge – along with subtle and complex spiciness – in an evocative finish. As usual, this will offer a fascinating decade or more of comparison with the Clos du Chateau des Ducs. (The 2004, incidentally, displays cut, clarity, and more concentration than its vintage stable mates – because, says Lafarge, the fruit from this site permitted greater fermentative extraction than that from his other hailed-on Volnay vineyards.) The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus.

Vinous

Vinous

95

Full ruby-red. Pure, complex but restrained nose offers blackberry, black cherry, licorice, spices and black pepper. Wonderfully intense and vibrant, with a compellingly chewy texture and great thrust to the highly concentrated dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. The fine-grained tannins spread out to saturate the palate of this powerfully structured Volnay, with the wine's perfume lingering in the mouth for minutes. I asked Frederic when the estate last made a Clos des Chenes as good as this, and he replied that it's the best since the '61. Extended bottle aging may well bring an even higher rating. Volnay doesn't get much better than this.