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Domaine Jean Louis Chave

1998 Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge 1.5L

France Syrah Rhone Hermitage 1.5L

Wine Advocate

95

Vinous

94
/
1998 Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge 1.5L
Domaine Jean Louis Chave

1998 Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge 1.5L

France Syrah Rhone Hermitage 1.5L

Wine Advocate

95

Vinous

94
/

The peak of blending, the plots going into the Hermitage rouge are the finest of the region - Bessards, Beaumes, Hermite, Péléat, and Méal. Mostly de-stemmed, the wine is fermented in stainless steel and tonneaux before being transferred to 228L barriques, predominantly neutral, and aged for around 30 months.

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The perfection of Syrah lies somewhere in between the assortment of ancient vines belonging to Jean-Louis Chave in the Rhone Valley's crown jewel: Hermitage. Though vat in comparison to Romanee-Conti, the pride and glory of these vineyards is just as storied. Chave is a master of the blend, and the rare master of both red and white variations of Hermitage.

Domaine Jean Louis Chave

Ever a humble man, maybe not as reticent and reclusive from the public eye as Jacques Reynaud, Jean-Louis Chave presides over the family Domaine that holds its roots in the Northern Rhone dating back to the fifteenth century. Yikes. Native to the village of Saint-Joseph, which was once considered some of the finest land of the Rhone, they made their name with the Hermitage wines - Blanc et Rouge - and its famed slopes. 

Before we talked at length as a wine culture about the art of blending, the Chave family may as well hold the title of the Dom Perignon of the Rhone - Jean-Louis and his father Gerard did and still do the unthinkable in blending all of their stunning old vineyards into one cuvée (save for select vintages, when a whopping 200 cases of Cuvée Cathelin is released). This is the ultimate example of the sum is greater than the parts, because in tasting the individual plots you would cry out to bottle them separately (as I have pled with several Champagne producers to release the vin clair as a Coteaux, seemingly in its perfect form already). Yet upon tasting the finished product, you know that Syrah has peaked, beyond comprehension. 

Meet the Producer

Domaine Jean Louis Chave

The perfection of Syrah lies somewhere in between the assortment of ancient vines belonging to Jean-Louis Chave in the Rhone Valley's crown jewel: Hermitage. Though vat in comparison to Romanee-Conti, the pride and glory of these vineyards is just as storied. Chave is a master of the blend, and the rare master of both red and white variations of Hermitage.

Ever a humble man, maybe not as reticent and reclusive from the public eye as Jacques Reynaud, Jean-Louis Chave presides over the family Domaine that holds its roots in the Northern Rhone dating back to the fifteenth century. Yikes. Native to the village of Saint-Joseph, which was once considered some of the finest land of the Rhone, they made their name with the Hermitage wines - Blanc et Rouge - and its famed slopes. 

Before we talked at length as a wine culture about the art of blending, the Chave family may as well hold the title of the Dom Perignon of the Rhone - Jean-Louis and his father Gerard did and still do the unthinkable in blending all of their stunning old vineyards into one cuvée (save for select vintages, when a whopping 200 cases of Cuvée Cathelin is released). This is the ultimate example of the sum is greater than the parts, because in tasting the individual plots you would cry out to bottle them separately (as I have pled with several Champagne producers to release the vin clair as a Coteaux, seemingly in its perfect form already). Yet upon tasting the finished product, you know that Syrah has peaked, beyond comprehension. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

The 1998 Hermitage is also gorgeous, yet has more concentration and depth. Described as a “granite year” by Jean-Louis, this puppy has searing, liquid rock-like qualities to go with ample dark fruit, gunpowder and flint. Structured, firm and backward, yet with a rock-star mid-palate and finish, give it another 3-5 years and drink bottles through 2028. Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.

Vinous

Vinous

94

Full ruby. Subtle, extremely complex nose melds cassis, bitter cherry, licorice, menthol and gunflint. Great purity and class in the middle palate, though extremely young and not currently showing the texture of the unfinished '99. But this is utterly compelling syrah, finishing with superb length and extremely fine tannins for the vintage. The '99 may be more pliant in the early going thanks to its sweeter tannins, but I'm not yet convinced it will surpass this brilliant '98.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

The 1998 Hermitage is also gorgeous, yet has more concentration and depth. Described as a “granite year” by Jean-Louis, this puppy has searing, liquid rock-like qualities to go with ample dark fruit, gunpowder and flint. Structured, firm and backward, yet with a rock-star mid-palate and finish, give it another 3-5 years and drink bottles through 2028. Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.

Vinous

Vinous

94

Full ruby. Subtle, extremely complex nose melds cassis, bitter cherry, licorice, menthol and gunflint. Great purity and class in the middle palate, though extremely young and not currently showing the texture of the unfinished '99. But this is utterly compelling syrah, finishing with superb length and extremely fine tannins for the vintage. The '99 may be more pliant in the early going thanks to its sweeter tannins, but I'm not yet convinced it will surpass this brilliant '98.