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1990 Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
NEW
1 In Stock
  • Lightly Scuffed Label, Zachys 2019

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Still bearing the name of its founder, the famed Domaine Georges Roumier today is in the ultra-capable hands of Christophe, Georges' grandson. One of the foremost in domaine bottling in the early 20th century, today the fame is more for the unbelievably high quality that results in very few of these bottles ever on store shelves, such is the demand.

Domaine Georges Roumier

Christophe oversees about 40 acres of vines, mostly in Chambolle-Musigny where the winery itself stands, but there are vines in Morey-Saint-Denis, Charmes-Chambertin, Echezeaux and Corton-Charlemagne, to name a few of the 12 appellations the Domaine has holdings in. The hallmark is finesse, favoring purity of flavor and texture over oak presence or extraction. Christophe took over at only 24 years of age, a soft-spoken and deeply thoughtful mind who today is a sounding board for several young vignerons throughout Burgundy.

Vine age is about 40 years old on average across the Domaine. Christophe will usually retain about 20-30% of the stems for his fermentations - excluding the Bourgogne Rouge, which is entirely destemmed - and perform punchdowns throughout fermentations to aid in flavor development. Usually 15-30% new oak barrels are used, except for the Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge and the Musigny, both of which are fermented and aged in used barrels.

The Charmes-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin are bottled under the Christophe Roumier label, as they are longstanding vineyard leases where Christophe controls the farming of the vineyards. Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussiere is a monopole of the domaine.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Georges Roumier

Still bearing the name of its founder, the famed Domaine Georges Roumier today is in the ultra-capable hands of Christophe, Georges' grandson. One of the foremost in domaine bottling in the early 20th century, today the fame is more for the unbelievably high quality that results in very few of these bottles ever on store shelves, such is the demand.

Christophe oversees about 40 acres of vines, mostly in Chambolle-Musigny where the winery itself stands, but there are vines in Morey-Saint-Denis, Charmes-Chambertin, Echezeaux and Corton-Charlemagne, to name a few of the 12 appellations the Domaine has holdings in. The hallmark is finesse, favoring purity of flavor and texture over oak presence or extraction. Christophe took over at only 24 years of age, a soft-spoken and deeply thoughtful mind who today is a sounding board for several young vignerons throughout Burgundy.

Vine age is about 40 years old on average across the Domaine. Christophe will usually retain about 20-30% of the stems for his fermentations - excluding the Bourgogne Rouge, which is entirely destemmed - and perform punchdowns throughout fermentations to aid in flavor development. Usually 15-30% new oak barrels are used, except for the Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge and the Musigny, both of which are fermented and aged in used barrels.

The Charmes-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin are bottled under the Christophe Roumier label, as they are longstanding vineyard leases where Christophe controls the farming of the vineyards. Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussiere is a monopole of the domaine.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The wines of this famed domaine, long known for its classic old style burgundies, do indeed improve with cellaring. The Domaine Roumier made some of the finest 1988s and their 1990s range from excellent to outstanding. In 1990, Roumier made only one cuvee of Bonnes Mares, blending his vineyard holdings from the Chambolle-Musigny side with those from the Morey St.-Denis side. Readers may remember that in 1988 there were 100 cases made of a fabulous Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. Although Roumier's 1990 does not rival his top cuvee of 1988, it is a terrific red burgundy, with a dark ruby/garnet color, a big, spicy, plummy, earthy nose, rich, opulent, muscular, full-bodied flavors that exhibit terrific extraction of fruit, and a spicy, mineral, iron-like finish with significant tannin. It reminds me of his 1985, but with much more stuffing and grip. Drink it between 1994-2008.

Vinous

Vinous

98

What a fabulous wine the 1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru! Youthful in colour, it has beguiling complexity on the nose, secondary aromas percolating through the carapace of red fruit: truffle, smoke and a touch of peppermint. The palate is quite dense and voluminous, as you would expect given the growing season, yet there is sensational precision and poise. The final third delivers incredible tension and mineralité, hints of iodine and spice lending more complexity and the aftertaste continues on and on and on. I wonder if this is à point? Then again, there is so much substance that you can easily envisage this offering another two decades of drinking pleasure. Stunning. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London with consistent notes.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The wines of this famed domaine, long known for its classic old style burgundies, do indeed improve with cellaring. The Domaine Roumier made some of the finest 1988s and their 1990s range from excellent to outstanding. In 1990, Roumier made only one cuvee of Bonnes Mares, blending his vineyard holdings from the Chambolle-Musigny side with those from the Morey St.-Denis side. Readers may remember that in 1988 there were 100 cases made of a fabulous Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. Although Roumier's 1990 does not rival his top cuvee of 1988, it is a terrific red burgundy, with a dark ruby/garnet color, a big, spicy, plummy, earthy nose, rich, opulent, muscular, full-bodied flavors that exhibit terrific extraction of fruit, and a spicy, mineral, iron-like finish with significant tannin. It reminds me of his 1985, but with much more stuffing and grip. Drink it between 1994-2008.

Vinous

Vinous

98

What a fabulous wine the 1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru! Youthful in colour, it has beguiling complexity on the nose, secondary aromas percolating through the carapace of red fruit: truffle, smoke and a touch of peppermint. The palate is quite dense and voluminous, as you would expect given the growing season, yet there is sensational precision and poise. The final third delivers incredible tension and mineralité, hints of iodine and spice lending more complexity and the aftertaste continues on and on and on. I wonder if this is à point? Then again, there is so much substance that you can easily envisage this offering another two decades of drinking pleasure. Stunning. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London with consistent notes.