Theo Dancer
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The son of one of Burgundy's top white wine producers, Theo Dancer has continued his father Vincent's work at the Burgundy domaine, all the while branching off to experiment with other varieties that he has a connection with. While he still produces some Aligoté and Gamay that don't stray far from Burgundy's roots, he's also sourcing from great vineyards in Alsace, Savoie, the Jura and now Provence to craft his eponymous wines. Expect the same riveting quality long showcased in the Burgundy domaine but now honed through the prism of the über-talented younger generation's taste and style.
The name Vincent Dancer should ring a bell if you are a lover of white Burgundy. If it doesn't that's okay, as it is true that the wines have always ended up in few places and few cellars. When we think of white Burgundy recently there are two camps: the classic with maybe a bit more weight, concentration, etc. such as the wines of Leflaive and Ramonet for example; then there is the new wave, who seem to be pushing reduction to its limit. I have always believed that Vincent Dancer has found the perfect harmony. It isn't often that all wines in the range are treated the same way from ferment to aging vessels. Combined with the vineyard work and winemaking choices, Dancer has been putting out some of the most transparent wines that truly show the sense of place of their respective vineyards. Theo, Vincent's son, has been working with his father at the Domaine and in recent vintages has pretty much fully taken the reins. Aside from taking over the Domaine and continuing the work his father has taught him, Theo has started his own project as well. The labels really speak to the ethos; when you see the label, you think of Vincent Dancer, and they honor the tradition of the philosophies in the cellar, simply because it works. However, the labels are also a bit different, showing innovation, which is just what Theo is doing.
Theo is working with some grape varietals that are nontraditional to Burgundy, incorporating grapes like Savagnin and Pinot Gris and making them in Burgundy. Don't worry, he is still making some classic varietals like Aligoté and Gamay. When tasting the wines you feel the soul of Dancer's transparency along with the energy of a 23-year-old, talented winemaker.
Viticulture and VinificationTheo is focusing on healthy farming, sourcing grapes from the right people and the right vineyards, trusting in the work they put into their vines. While not all of the vineyards are yet certified organic, each vineyard is being treated with the utmost care and most "hands-off" approach.
Theo works on trusting his instincts and experience with his father to create the best expression of each wine that he can. In the cellar, the object is to keep it minimalist: native yeasts, no enzymes or acids, natural malolactic fermentation, no batonnage, and no fining or filtering. While each wine is given the same approach, there is some variation to length of racking, fermentation vessels, and more. Below we will dive into detail on each wine.
