Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
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Led by the inimitable Guillaume d'Angerville, this truly became the marquee (sorry) attraction of the region of Volnay, the Domaine's wines consistently at the very highest level of Burgundian Pinot Noir. Beyond the name, the estate has and continues to be a trailblazer - one of the very first Burgundian estates to bottle their own wines - eschewing negociants which ruled the wine world in the 1920s - and was at the forefront of an organic & biodynamic farming movement. Emotionally, these wines will always have a place on any wine list we write; they're what you could call "minimalist" but we prefer pure: pure, precise illustrations of where those grape vines are planted. Be it the terra cotta soils of Volnay Cailleret, or the white marls of the famed monopole Clos des Ducs, it is forever unmistakable when you taste a wine of D'Angerville. The labels are as timeless as the wines, which can form part of the core of your cellar for decades.
The sixth generation of the house D'Angerville to make wine, Guillaume oversees production of what is now a 17 hectare estate in Volnay, including the famous monopole vineyard Clos des Ducs. He has enviable portions of other Premier Crus such as Taillepieds, Caillerets, Champans and Fremiet, and even produces a few delicious whites (including Meursault-Santenots from a vineyard adjacent his Volnay land).
The entire estate was converted to biodynamic viticulture by Guillaume in 2006, following the examples of his compatriots Mmes Leroy & Leflaive. Even in tough vintages, these changes have allowed the vines to thrive and consistently produce beautiful, healthy fruit. In the cellar, all Premier Cru wines are treated identically: de-stemmed, macerated for 8-10 days with gentle pump-overs - no punch-downs to maintain finesse - and aged in around 25% new oak.
Stylistically, the Volnay wines are fine-grained and structured in their youth; with 5+ years of age - ideally twenty-plus years - they unfurl to reveal gorgeous, cherry-red fruits with a distinctive minerality, delicate spice and a brilliant spark and elegance.
